And by that, you do know I mean that it�s the most intense because the intensity is happening now. I�ve no real idea if this really is the most intense week because, well, it�s hard to compare memories with people slaughtering goats in your front yard, real time.
A little background I suppose, D and I are over here to work with a fairly newly created school for autism. Currently, it�s basically being used as a somewhat over complicated day care center by the parents of these children, of which only about half actually have autism and the others have a myriad of other problems, such as rets and the like.
These last two days D has been educating the small staff of this school on how to actually get results from these children and to get away from the �just make sure they don�t hurt themselves� mentality. It�s hard but rewarding work. Especially considering last week D met with all the parents of the children (12 in total) and worked on their individual cases. The kids that have other disorders are the hardest. It�s not easy to tell a person their child will likely get worse and not better, considering that the person begs to get the money to get her child to school, and then goes outside the school to beg to get the child home and to afford some rice.
We also spent a little time last Sunday to go to Zanzibar, aka the spice islands. Amazing little city, Stone Town is. Still filthy and poor like Dar Es Salaam, but instead of exhaust fumes choking you, the town wafts of spice. Probably the most prevalent is clove. The extremely narrow streets of Stone Town proper prevent most motorized traffic and the markets aren�t clotted havens of pickpockets and thieves like most of the Dar markets. Of course you have to be careful in any large crowd, but that�s no different then New York City either. The food market we wondered through was lovely. No one hawked after you and you were free to peruse the items at leisure. The fish market being a notable experience since at least half of the /things/ I saw there weren�t recognizable in any way shape or form. I THINK they were fish!
The food was also unreal. I had this traditional prawn dish as a starter and it literally exploded with flavors so complex, my pallet had a hard time making sense of it all. The main course was also layered with complex and yummy spices that paired with the local Lager made a wonderful experience. Even the cr�me brule had an unknown spice laced in it.
The most intense part of this day trip, however, was the visit to the former slave markets. The actual market is no longer there, now a catholic church stands on the place where the whipping post used to be. This is noted inside the church with a dark circle of marble where the post would be, which is surrounded by red marble to represent the blood of the slaves.
In another building on the site they have these basement rooms, two to be exact (there used to be 6 in total I believe but only two remain as a reminder). These � dungeons under this building were used as a test of fortitude for the slaves. One room in particular was around 300sf with two small slits for air and light. In this room they would /stack/ 75 women and children. The other room was similarly sized and they placed 50 men in that one. No toilets, no water, very little light and air. This was what they called a �Test� of fortitude. Any slave who survived would fetch a hirer price since the slave market was well known to provide quality slaves. They have some of the chains originally used down in these rooms. I don�t particularly believe in spirits or other such things, but touching these chains was.. well, it wasn�t a pleasant thing, let�s just say. I have pictures that I�ll be sure to post next month when I get back.
Overall this entire trip has been eye opening. I knew the country was poor but I had no concept of what poor meant. I thought poor was breaking a popsicle to share once a week. 60 dollars a month - > That is FUCKING POOR. People living in mud huts (And I�m not talking isolated, it�s COMMON) is fucking POOR. Using a cooking fire as your source of light, warmth and as your stove is fucking poor. I had no idea, how could I? I�ve been to shanty towns in Mexico and was horrified at the conditions, but those were areas of town, not entire cities.
I don�t want to over emphasize the negative, however. The people are truly wonderful. Polite, giving and very warm. We�re staying in a very rural area called Kigamboni and have to take a ferry to Dar every day. This area is extremely poor, as I said, but has a huge sense of community. I�ve been a guest at these nightly gatherings where people come from around the area to share stories, talk politics, drink beer and just generally have a nice quiet time together. Also, there is a beach close by called Kipepeo (butterfly in Swahili) that�s without a doubt the finest beach I�ve ever set foot on.
It�s been a rich and wonderful experience so far. I am horrified and delighted at almost every turn. It is, without a doubt, a country of contrasts.
Oh and no, I don�t like goat meat, it�s official.
All this and I�ve barely been here a week. I can�t wait to see what the following weeks bring.
From Africa,
-G